Finger boards and rock rings are most effective at training contact strength, body tension and general upper-body strength. Contact strength, also referred to as finger strength, is simply the ability to hold onto the holds (as opposed to the ability to move between the holds). It is the single most important type of strength for a climber to have. If you can’t even hold onto the grips, there is no way you will be able to move between them. Body tension, sometimes called core strength, allows you to distribute the force your generating between your points of control and to direct your movement. It allows you to weight your feet and save energy. This type of strength (or the lack thereof) is especially noticeable in controlling swings around the lips of roofs or on steep rock in general, but it is critical to all climbing movement
Training boards tip 2
