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Training boards tip 6: Offset hang

Training for Rock Climbing in Auckland

This exercise begins to develop one-arm power. Begin with two separate edges and center your weight under the arm to be loaded and perform the hang, giving yourself just enough help with the other hand to complete the exercise. A variation that is good for training lock-off strength, is to take two similar holds at the same height, but at least shoulder width apart. Pull up partway and lock-off as in a bent arm hang. Shift your weight all the way to one side and hold a contraction. Shift your weight laterally, all the way to the other side, without lowering your body and hold an equal contraction. Repeat. Vary the angle of your lock off, the duration of your lock off and the number of repetitions.
Information taken from the Metolius brochure.